Noodle Soup

This brutal weather calls for a big bowl of piping hot noodle soup! When confronted with this particular craving, I often find myself at Ony (CLOSED AS OF 11/26/06), a West Village ramen house. At Ony you may customize your soup by adding extras such as chicken, tofu and kimchi. You can even choose your own broth (I like the spicy miso). There's also a creative sushi menu; I recommend any of the maki that contain yuzu kosho sauce, a peppery lemon mayonnaise.

Last night, I accidentally boarded a W train on the way home. Shivering on the elevated subway platform, I decided to turn my mistake into an opportunity to eat noodle soup! I simply changed to the 7 train at Queensboro Plaza, got off at Roosevelt, and headed over to Tibetan Yak. This cozy spot specializes in handrolled noodles, several preparations of which involve very satisfying soups. Tsel gutse ritu is a giant bowl of bok choy, mushrooms and rolled pasta soup, and thinthuk features flat pasta, beef and radish. And for dessert, there's the Tibetan version of noodle pudding: bhatsa markhu.

Stay warm!

Ony: 357 6th Ave., (212) 414-8429. Tibetan Yak Restaurant: 72-20 Roosevelt Ave., Queens, (718) 779-1119.